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Sharp Points on Collars and Cuffs

We’ve been receiving questions about how to get sharp, crisp points on shirt collars and cuffs.  I get the best results using the method described by Pamela Erny in her article “Perfect Collar Points… A Shirtmaker’s Secret Technique” (after following the link, scroll down the page a little ways to get to this article).  I’ve listed a summary of the steps below as a checklist, but be sure to visit Pamela’s tutorial for the full explanation and detailed photographs.

  1. Place collar (or cuff) pieces right sides together and stitch the long top seam completely from one edge to the other.
  2. Press the seam flat, then press it open.  Lay both halves of the collar with right sides up.
  3. Cut a piece of thread about 15”-20” long and fold it in half so there is a loop on one end.
  4. Lay the folded thread exactly in the well of the seam, with a generous portion of the looped side extending beyond the edge of the fabric.
  5. Fold the collar right sides together, matching the short side seams of the collar and trapping the folded thread inside, snugged up against the line of stitching, with the thread loop still extending beyond the edge of the fabric.
  6. Before stitching, ensure the thread is still resting right against the seam.
  7. Match the short edges of the collar and stitch the seam, using a very short stitch length (around 1 mm) for the first inch of the seam, then changing back to your regular stitch length to finish the short end of the collar.
  8. Trim the seam allowance diagonally at the collar point, making sure not to cut the thread loop.
  9. Grasp both the thread tails from inside the collar, and gently pull both threads until the collar point is completely turned out.
  10. To remove the thread, pull only one of the thread tails until the thread slips out of the fabric.
  11. Repeat the process on the other side of the collar (or cuff)